Peelings

©Clínica Naturale 2008
Autor Prof. Dr. Miguel Francischelli Neto
Clínica Naturale
Av. Moema, 87 cj 51-52, Moema, São Paulo - SP, Brasil
Fone 11 50511075

1- What is chemical  peelings

The peelings are  procedures capable to correct marks, stains, many of the alterations of the aging and to improve the appearance and the quality of the skin.

 The peeling removes a layer, that soon is regenerated and it receives a new aspect through cells that stay in certain points of the skin and with reproduction capacity.

It exists several peelings types.  Then  one  method that removes skin layers, that can be controlled and dominated by the physician, can have the peeling effect. It  exists  the chemical peelings that use the chemical effect of substances, exists the physical peeling, that makes abrasions in the skin and the peeling with  LASER , the  Ressurfacing with  Laser, that makes the withdrawal of the skin with the action of the luminous energy of the Laser.

In this article, we will treat more specifically of the chemical peelings.

2 – How  Peeling acts?

The skin is formed by two main layers the epidermis and the dermis. The Epidermis is subdivided in 5 very thin  layers: Extratum  Corneum, Lucidun, Granulosum, Spinosum e Basale

and Dermis in 2 thicker layers:  Papillary and Reticular

Dividing   the two layers, it is the basal membrane, responsible for the regeneration of the skin. The basal membrane is continued by the annexes of the skin, as the pilous follicle and glands it is the  basal membrane the responsible for the regeneration of the skin after the deep  peeling.

Explaining in a simple way, the peeling removes layers of the skin and it creates a cellular regeneration starting from the basal layer and of the annexes that it will generate a better skin.

The peelings can be very superficial, superficial, medium and deep depending on the area of the skin that reaches.

 Level of Peeling Layers and Treatable Problems

The very superficial peelings, act on the horny layer, that it is a layer, amorphous, very superficial  that  protects the skin, and on the most superficial layer of the epidermis.  A new epidermis and horny layer will regenerate and to produce a softer skin.

The superficial peeling,  acts a  little more deeply, but still in the level of the epidermis, correcting superficial alterations of the skin.

Medium Peeling, already acts more deeply, close to dermis and it removes deeper lesions.

Deep Peeling, reaches the deepest layers of the dermis and acts on the deepest lesions, as wrinkles, laxity, stains and scars and it attenuates furrows. It is the deepest than she get to reach in a peeling.

The regeneration always happens starting from the basal layer, that it is the layer with regeneration capacity. It is the peeling with the best results, but with the most complex procedure and the most difficult recovery. It is not a simple procedure, a good planning should be done before performing this peeling type.

The general principle , is that if a lesion that we want to treat is deep in the skin, the peeling should reach this depth to be efficient in  his elimination. If the lesion is in the surface, the peeling doesn't need to be so deep. The more deep the peeling, more careful it should be  performed , and more cares are necessary in the after peelings, then that it is not only the peeling type, but the depth  that it is applied  that determines the results and the risks of the treatment.

The freckles and the superficial melasma, as well as the light roughness of the skin are in the epidermis. The deep or mixed melasma or, the post -inflammatory hyperpigmentation, the actinics keratoses , the superficial wrinkles and the acne reach the epidermis and the dermis, and the deep wrinkles and the acne scars are in the dermis.

Then, depending at the place of the skin reached, we will have the depth of Peeling that can be efficient and she can opt for the one that will give the best result.

Then that to correct a certain problem it should be made a certain peeling, no any peeling, and the peeling is not a magic solution, but an excellent combat weapon to the problems of the skin. If well used and performed will bring satisfaction to the patient, but exaggerating expectations should be discouraged. Then, when there is a problem, better than to seek a peeling, it is to perform a consultation, and the physician, knowing the several peeling types, will know how to prepare the skin and to indicate the best procedures, in the appropriate moment.

The depth of the peeling depends on the applied substance, on it is applied, on the  application technique (brush, cotton swab or gauze), on  the previous preparation of the skin with topical treatments, on  the preparation that precedes immediately the procedure with cleaning and oiliness withdrawal, on  the skin type (thin, thick), on  the location and on  the duration of the contact with the skin (mainly the glycolic acid peelings). Then a lot of  variability can be obtained, and the indication of the peeling should belong to the physician, that knows all of the possibilities.  

In a general way, the more deep, best are the results, but bigger  are the risks and the difficulties in the post-peeling. Several agents can perform peelings, and a same agent can get different depths. Among them we have the Retinoic Acid, the Salicilic Acid, the Jessner Solution , the Resorcinol, the Trichloroacetic Acid - TCA, Blue Peel, Alpha hydroxy acids , Glicolic, THE Phenol, THE 5-Fluoracil, Alkapeel and others. The peelings with marks, are usually variants of these materials, organized in a way to facilitate for the physicians and the patients.

The Naturale Clinic uses the Kacowicz © Method , that gathers a series of different peelings, one for each indication and that reach all of the depths and  can correct most of the treatable problems by  peelings.

The freckles and the superficial melasma, as well as the light roughness of the skin are in the epidermis. The deep or mixed melasmas, the post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, the actinics keratoses , the superficial wrinkles and the acne reach the epidermis and the dermis, and the deep wrinkles and the acne scars are in the dermis.

Then, depending on  the place of the skin reached, we will have the depth of Peeling that can be efficient and we  can opt for the one that will give the best result.

They also exist the calling  sequential peelings. Although we know that a sequence of medium peelings will never be a deep peeling, we also know that a sequence of medium peelings is more than an isolated medium peeling. Then for the patients with deeper lesions and that don't want to submit the difficulties of  recovery of the deep peelings, we can use a sequence of medium peelings. In this alternative, we used Midpeel or Neopeel, from 3 to 4 peelings in intervals from 30 to 60 days. With that, although we don't reach the same results of the deep peeling, we  can obtain a considerable improvement in a lighter way.

Another peeling used in a sequence way  is Peeling de Urucum or Bleach-Pulse Urucum , applied monthly in a series of 6 sessions, with specific indications for stains ans melasma.

3 - Planning, application and expected results

The peeling follows a series of routines, that should be obeyed strictly, the results  depend of then.

The individual variation is large, and only the physician's evaluation can conclude, exactly , the best conduct, but we will try to give an idea, so that a planning is made.

The - consultation

The peeling is a medical procedure and they should be following the classic principles  of the Medicine. As in any other area, also in the medical aesthetics, the physician's examination is the beginning of any efficient programming of treatment. Each patient has a type of manifestation of their aesthetic problems, that should be correctly identified for the efficient correction.

The treatments are personalized for each patient, and they should be initiate with a consultation, where will be identified the problems and guided eventual examinations to precede the procedure. After a wide explanation, it will be chosen the peeling type to be applied. if very superficial, superficial, medium or deep.

b – The preparation  of the skin

The very superficial peelings don't need preparation, but the others depend on a preparation related  to  the depth. The preparation is performed with creams, that will prepare  the skin . Due  it doesn't present stains in the post-peeling and so that it heals with more easiness. The preparation phase varies from 30 to 60 days. Alkapeel and Body Peel don't need preparation, Midpeel and Neoppel preparation of 30 days and Multipeel Phenol Light preparation 30 to 60 days. The preparation is performed with creams prescribed at the own clinic.

c - Place of Application of Peeling

The most superficial and medium peelings are clinic procedures, because they don't need any help of painkillers for they be used. Already the deep peelings need analgesic. Although they can be applied in the own clinic, we preferred to apply in our Day Hospital where larger safety exists, for the patient and for the physician.

d - The activities atn post-peeling  

Alkapeel allows immediate return to  activities, Body Peel, although leaves visible  action allows restricted activities, but with some restrictions for about 6 days. Midpeel and Neopel some restrictions by 6 days and Multipeel Phenol Light, restriction by  14 days.

e - Degree of difficulty.

The degree of difficulty of a peeling is determined by the moment of application and for the recovery.

Alkapeel is very simple, and very pleasant of being applied, and the recovery phase doesn't exist, because the results are immediate. Body Peel and MidPeel has small application difficulty and of recovery. Neopeel has a medium difficulty of application and simple recovery, already Multipeel Phenol Light has the largest application difficulty and recovery.

f - Results

In general line, the more deep the peeling, larger are the difficulties and best are the results. As soon as the results are proportional to the point of the skin that the peeling reaches. The best result and more impressive is from the  Multipeel Phenol Light, but because of the difficulties, they should be applied only in the most serious cases of aging.

g- Sequential Peelings

The sequential peelings are applied in the clinic in intervals from 30 to 60 days for the medium peelings and from 3 to 4 weeks for Peeling de Urucum or Bleach-Pulse Urucum .

4-types of Peeling

Several peeling types exist, then any  method that removes skin layers,  that  can be controlled and dominated by the physician, can have the peeling effect. They exist the chemical peelings that use the chemical effect of substances, the physical peeling, that makes abrasions in the skin and exists the peeling with  LASER or Ressurfacing with  Laser, that makes the withdrawal of the skin with action of the Laser.

5-Modified Chemical Peellings

They are the traditional chemical peelings, modified by modern techniques of chemistry, that offer advantages in  use, as better control for the physician and easiness of performance and recovery to the patient, with better results. One of the modified peelings more known, are the peelings of Catalyzed Phenol of the Kacowicz © Method, that are  the used at the Naturale Clinic. 

b- Kacowicz © Method  

It is a peelings method, developed by Dr. Kacowicz, that include the peelings of Phenol, among them the peeling of catalyzed phenol, a very known deep peeling and used all over the world and other modified peelings, besides the sequential peelings of phenol. They exist for several indications and depths. Among them, we have Alkapeel known like the  "Peeling of the Weekend", a very superficial peeling, The Peeling de Urucum or Bleach-Pulse Urucum , used for treatment of stains, the Lightpeel plus that is a superficial peeling, of faster recovery.  BodyPeel is used for striae and alterations of the body skin. Midpeel and Neopeel are already peelings of phenol medium, used for the lesions of the face, and Multipeel in their three versions, Light, Light-Light and Catalyzed Phenol are versions of deep peelings.

c-Sequential  Peelings

A technique so much  used at the Naturale Clinic are the sequential peelings, in this alternative, we used Midpeel or Neopeel in sequence, from 3 to 4 peelings in intervals from 30 to 60 days. With that, although we don't reach the same results of the deep peeling , we can achieve  a considerable improvement in a lighter way. Another peeling used in a sequential way  is the Peeling de Urucum or Bleach-Pulse Urucum , applied monthly in a series of 6 sessions, with specific indications for stains .

5 - Kacowicz © Method

At the Naturale Clinic, we used Kacowicz © Method's Peelings. Peeling of modified phenol is a true revolution in the medical aesthetics. This powerful peeling, is not new, but the performed modifications transformed him  in a technique current.

The phenol has been used in peelings since 1960, the new formula modified by the researcher and physician Dr. Kacowicz  "tamed" the phenol, leaving safer for the physician than applies it and for the patients that receive it. Actually it was not just developed a Peeling, but a method  of  peelings, each one with a different indication and besides the phenol peelings, they exist other specifically developed for certain problems.

The Kacowicz © Method includes treatments for all of the depths and problems that can be treated with peelings. We have then available, from very superficial, superficial, medium and deep peelings, body peelings and the newest, for stains, the urucum peeling.

Place  Peeling of Action Problems treatable descamation Period and recovery Cost

Very superficial Peeling:  Alkapeel

Very superficial Peeling, Alkapeel is a simple procedure, used with other treatments.

It is called of peeling of Thursday, because immediately the patient obtains an improved aspect of  skin, and can returns immediately to their activities, with the renewed skin and with a pleasant sensation of cleaning and coolness. The following day, Friday, day of walks, clubs, parties, and trips for beach, mountain or field, the patient is prepared for the social life, without any impediment on the part of the treatment.

Of course  this is   a very superficial peeling, that performes a true process of cleaning of the skin, eliminating the cells killed of the horny layer, without however to act in the depth. It is capable to improve very superficial stains, roughness, descamation, lacks of shine, dries skin and skin altered by the cold, wind, sun and make-ups.

Another important aspect of this peeling is that for removing the horny layer, that it is the most superficial, but it is also the more raincoat, produces a better local environment so that the other medicines to  rejuvenation of the skin as retinoic acid, vitamin C, AHA , despigmentant preparation  penetrate better and have better action.

 The biweekly repetition, for some months, brings a lingering benefit for the appearance of the skin. Alkapeel is a new peeling concept, it is a peeling different from the others that commonly are acid, this is an alkaline peeling.

ALKAPEEL is a peeling that with  chemical physical characteristic of being alkaline. acts on the fats of the superficial layers of the skin, that it drags with itself the superficial cells, promoting a superficial and instantaneous peeling performes a quite efficient microdermabrasion. doesn't produce inflammatory  process, it doesn't cause hyperpigmentation or depigmentation, being adapted for  all of the procedures and aesthetic treatments of the skin. Makes the horny layer thinner  giving a larger permeability to the skin, facilitating the penetration of other active medicines . It can be used in the preoperative period  of plastic surgeries, to increase the elasticity of the skin. It can also be used before other deeper peelings optimizing results. It is an initial treatment, that it favors the other ones. It can be applied biweekly  in some cases can  be weekly. It is not indicated for Acne or in skins with irritation.

Superficial Peeling:  LightPeel Plus -   The peeling of light

Lightpeel, the peeling of light is  a simple procedure.

It is a Superficial Peeling, therefore restricted to  the epidermis, based on the pyruvic acid, an very known agent of peeling. restructures the sustentation fibers, improving collagen, elastin and reticuline by  an indirect property of the peelings, that is to supply stimulus to the renewal of the skin components. The surface of the skin also obtains a enhance in the aspect  and the result is an appearance fresh, lush,  firm, and uniform. This peeling can be applied separately or according to the method of sequential peelings.

"Peeling of Light" is capable to improve the general appearance of the skin, and it is a treatment of 6 days, but that can be used with the sequential technique. 

It is performed at clinic, without the need of  anesthesia, after the peeling the patient is going home and a descamation begins that will last 6 or in some cases more days. After the descamation the skin already has a stretched aspect, clara, without roughness and more rejuvenated. 

Medium Peelings:  Midpeel and Neopeel

Medium Peeling make part of the Program of Light Facial Rejuvenation,because present good results, associated with the other techniques of Botox, Bioplasty  and the Conditioning treatment  of the skin. The advantage is that has less risks and a simpler Post - Peeling and they are suitable for the lightest cases of deterioration of the skin.

Peelings of Phenol are very known, however cares exist in  handling that request anesthesia and internment. There is a long time tries to "tame" the peeling of Phenol, leaving it more efficient, but without handling difficulties.

A new concept of Phenol catalyzed, where it  intends  to increase the penetration of the Phenol and to reduce undesirable effects for alterations in  formulation brought a new stimulus in  use. Midpeel and  Neopeeling  are a revolution in Peeling of Phenol, and even in all the already old technique of Peelings, bringing surprisingly good resulted  and with easiness and safety in the application. It is not necessary internment, nor anesthetisia, with the patient returning to the house in the same day, and being accompanied by the physician in the clinic. Midpeel and Neopeel are Peelings of Phenol medium, with easiness application and  a post- peeling is followed from 3 to 6 days with descamation. 

We used Neopeel and Midpeel to follow Phenol Catalyzed's concept, but as an alternative still less difficult than Multipeel Phenol Light, deep Peeling. Many of the skin lesions can be improved with this technique.

It is the peeling more used at our clinic, by  the cost -  benefit. It is not capable to reach the same results of deep peeling, but it gets important results in a simpler way. The great difference is in the application and recovery. While the peeling of deep phenol, has a more detailed and complex application, with a more difficult recovery, the medium peelings has simpler application and lighter recovery.

A new approach is being used at the Naturale Clinic, the sequential peelings:  Although we know that a sequence of medium peelings will never be a deep peeling, we also know that a sequence of medium peelings is more than an isolated medium peeling. Then for the patients with deeper lesions and that don't want to submitto  the difficulties of the procedure  and recovery time  of the deep peelings, we can use a sequence of medium peelings. In this alternative, we used Midpeel or Neopeel, from 3 to 4 peelings in intervals from 30 to 60 days. With that, although we don't reach the same results of the deep peeling , we can obtain a considerable improvement in a lighter and simple way.

Peeling of Deep Phenol-   Deep Phenol Catalyzed   Phenol Catalyzed

 Deep Peelings reach Dermis and they are capable to treat conditions that reach Deep Reticular Dermis. They are the ones that present the most surprising results, but with larger degree  of difficulty in the procedure and in the Post-Peeling. And they present larger risks of complications. They are for important aging of the skin, and never for the lightest ones,  than  are better treated with the techniques of the Light Facial Rejuvenationand and  medium Peelings. For the advanced cases of aging of the skin Peeling is almost the only alternative.

 The Naturale Clinic uses this new methodology of peelings of Phenol catalyzed each one for a problem type.

Peelings of deep Phenol were already very known, however they demanded cares in  handling that requested anesthesia and internment. There is a long time tries to "tame" the peeling of Phenol, leaving it efficient, but without handling difficulties.

A new concept of Phenol catalyzed, where  intend to increase the penetration of the Phenol and to reduce undesirable effects for alterations in  formulation brought a new stimulus in  use. Multipeel Phenol Light is a revolution in Peeling of Phenol, and even in all the already old technique of Peelings, bringing surprisingly  results and with easiness and safety in the application.  It is not necessary internment, nor anesthetisia, with the procedure being performed at a day hospital, under analgesia, with the patient returning to the house in the same day, and being accompanied by the physician in the clinic.

As Peeling of Deep Phenol Works

The freckles and the superficial melasma, as well as the light roughness of the skin are in the epidermis. The melasmas deep or mixed, the post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, the actinics keratoses , the superficial wrinkles and the acne  reach the epidermis and the dermis, and the deep wrinkles, the laxity and the acne scars are alterations of the dermis.

Then, depending at the place of the skin problem reached, we will have the depth of Peeling that can be efficient and she can opt for that will give the best result.

Phenol Light Peeling, Kacowicz Method reaches the deepest layers of the skin, correcting the maximum of lesions that is possible by  the peelings techniques.

You remove then the wrinkles, and it reduces the laxity of the skin, because it stimulates collagen and iprovokes the retraction of the skin, that  is firmer and without wrinkles.

He is known by several names, Multipeel Phenol Light, Multipeel Phenol Catalyzed, , Deep Peeling of Phenol, peeling of Attenuated Phenol. But exist in the method Kacowicz, 3 levels of peeling of deep phenol listed below, with their official names and for depth order.

Deep phenol  The Kacowicz © Method

The serious cases of aging of the skin, where the whole extension of the face is taken with wrinkles, stains, laxity and furrows need a peeling action that reach  to the depth. Multipeel of Phenol Light catalyzed, offers very good results, without needing internment or surgery. However should not be considered a simple procedure, cares ay post-peeling are necessary, with dedication by the patient to  the treatment and the physician's detailed attendance during whole the process of renewal of the skin that takes a period of 14 days on average. 

The application of the deep peeling

This Peeling is applied with the phenol solution modified. The phenol attenuated gatecrasher in the skin and break the proteins, altering  structure, from the ligations of the amino acids in each protein. The cohesion of the skin is altered and the skin is modified deeply by an own chemical action of the phenol. The modifications of the new peeling  maintains the maximum action where she is requested, reducing the action the distance and the toxicity. It is applied after a citric acid solution and later a layer of a porous silicone.

The action of the peeling reaches what is called basal layer, that it is the responsible for the regeneration of the skin. This layer is also eliminated, depending on regeneration cells that are present in the abundant pilous follicles of the skin, to promote the emergence of the new surface of the skin.

The whole superficial layer of the skin is eliminated, the superficial blood vessels are reached. The aged superficial skin is practically liquefied. Water is produced starting from the blood vessels, a great oedema appears (swelling ) in the face, that is normal and it is part of the treatment. This liquid interrupts the action of the phenol, that goes being eliminated with the physician's action that  removes the secretions and the silicone, leaving the phenol together, after having acted.

A new basal layer appears starting from the pilous follicle, and it is this layer that will recover the skin, and to produce the rejuvenated aspect.

The skin rejuvenates, the dermis recovers with the formation of the collagen, that the most solid clue, the epidermis rejuvenates, giving an aspect rejuvenated for the skin. less wrinkles, less laxity, less roughness, less furrows, less stains, larger shine and firmness.

Peeling for stains:  Peeling de Urucum or Bleach-Pulse Urucum

Peeling de Urucum or Bleach-Pulse Urucum  is a creation of the Kacowicz © Method, especially prepared for the treatment of stains of melanin of the skin, as the melasma. The Treatment is lie down with the sequential method.

On average 6 peelings are performed with intervals of 30 days. Despigemntants Medication is used before and in the intervals of the application of the peelings. It is an innovative method, because acts in the modification of the coloration of the stains, reducing  intensity, while the despigmentatnts  are going reducing the stains.

It is very difficult the cure of the melanin stains. Not even it is treated of an illness. We cannot intend the cure of the stains of the skin provoked by the melanin, but  the control. They appear with pregnancy, excessive exhibition to  the sun,  inadequate use of cosmetics, contraceptives, stress, etc. A very important factor is the genetic predisposition. Peeling de Urucum or Bleach-Pulse Urucum is a system of innovative treatment, that it is part of the Kacowicz © Method. . Intend  to clear the skin, controlling the excessive production of melanin, without,  however,  eliminate it  completely. They use anti-oxidants and anti-inflammatory substances, among them Bixina of Urucum, that are similar to  the melanin of the skin. Studies performed in Europe demonstrated that Peeling de Urucum or Bleach-Pulse Urucum  is several times more potent to clear the skin that the knownest despigmentants used  until then.

Body Peeling:  Body-peel 

Peeling to  age spots  of the Hands

TheTreatment of the  aging of the hands that causes the emergence of stains and rugosity and laxity of the skin doesn't owe be restricts to  the stains. The whole skin should be treated, to obtain a homogeneous aspect, without stains and more silky. We used Body Peel.  This  peeling is performed at the clinic. 

Peeling for Stria

A complete and definitive treatment for striae doesn't exist, however  the aspect can be improved with the use of Alkapeel, that favors the subsequent penetration  of retinoic acid, that activates the production  of new cells. Later physical abrasion  and Body Peel can be applied to stimulate the growth of a new epidermis on the cicatricial tissue of the stria. With this technique we can obtain improvement of the aspect.

Peeling for  stains of the Body

The Acne can cause dark stains, inflammatory calls of  inflammatory hyperpigmentation , that cause aesthetic discomfort and usually presents in the backs and lap. After treatment with despigmentants, Body Peel can be applied to improve the results

Sequential Peeling:  Midpeel and Sequential Neopell

A new approach is being used at the Naturale Clinic, the sequential peelings:  Although we know that a sequence of medium peelings will never be a deep peeling, we also know that a sequence of medium peelings is more than an isolated medium peeling. Then for the patients with deeper lesions and that don't want to submit to the procedure difficulties and recovery time of the deep peelings, we can use a sequence of medium peelings. In this alternative, we used Midpeel or Neopeel, from 3 to 4 peelings in intervals from 30 to 60 days. With that, although we don't reach the same results of the deep peeling , we can obtain a considerable improvement in a lighter and simple way.

Medium Peeling make part of the Program of Light Facial Rejuvenation,because present good results, associated with the other techniques of Botox, Bioplasty and Conditioning of the skin. The advantage is that has less risks and a simpler Post - Peeling and they are suitable for the lightest cases of deterioration of the skin.

Peelings of Phenol are very known, however cares exist in  handling that request anesthesia and internment. There is a long time tries to "tame" the peeling of Phenol, leaving it efficient, but without handling difficulties.

A new concept of Phenol catalyzed, where she intend to increase the penetration of the Phenol and to reduce undesirable effects for alterations in  formulation brought a new stimulus in  his use. Midpeel and  Neoppeling  are a revolution in Peeling of Phenol, and even in all the already old technique of Peelings, bringing surprisingly results and with easiness and safety in the application. It is not necessary internment, nor anesthetisia, with the patient returning to the house in the same day, and being accompanied by the physician in the clinic. Midpeel and Neopeel are Peelings of medium Phenol, with easiness application and  a posts peeling is followed from 3 to 6 days with descamation. 

We used Neopeel and Midpeel to follow Phenol Catalyzed's concept, but as an alternative still less difficult than Multipeel Phenol Light, deep Peeling. Many of the skin lesions can be improved with this technique.

It is the peeling more used at our clinic, for the cost - benefit. It is not capable to reach the same results of deep peeling, but it gets important results in a simpler way. The great difference is  the application and recovery. While the peeling of deep phenol, has a more detailed and complex application, with a more difficult recovery, the medium peelings has simpler application and lighter recovery.

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