Medicines

©Clínica Naturale 2008
Autor Prof. Dr. Miguel Francischelli Neto
Clínica Naturale
Av. Moema, 87 cj 51-52, Moema, São Paulo - SP, Brasil
Fone 11 50511075

Several medicines are used by the Naturale Clinic, the main ones are the Retinoic Acid, the Glicolic Acid, the Ascorbic acid (vitamin C), Lighteners and the ones that promote the Sun Protection and the auxiliary creams like DMAE and Elastinol.

The topical medicines, act in the intimacy of the skin, previnindo the aging, delaying  his speed and rejuvenating the skin. With the use of the medical cosmetology, a lot can be obtained, spending just some minutes at home. The use of creams is important part of the Program of Light Facial Rejuvenation, because it won't only improve the skin, but  help to maintain the good obtained results. Botox for wrinkles, the lifting with Botox, fillers substances , Superficial and Medium Peelings, Bioplasty, with the conditioning of the skin can delay the need of surgeries , correcting   the aging problems.

1-The  Sun Protection – Sunscreens

As we can observe in this part of the site, a great amount of clinical treatments exists for the facial aging. The modern research physician, same counting with all those resources, it still applies great sums in the whole world in search of new methods. Those treatments, are already very known and they are already routine in many centers and they bring benefits undeniable to human  aesthetic . However, it is important to remind that a measure that can be used separately exists or with the treatments, that it is simple, very efficient, easy to use and what is more important, it is not costly:  The sun protection.

The sunshine is the most important external factor responsible for the aging of the skin. For this action grew up the term Photoaging. Photoaging,  considering the alterations with  importance aesthetic, shows in the skin of the exposed sun areas the increase of stains, increase of fine wrinkles, worsens of the expression wrinkles and furrows, laxity and rugosity. It also exists the fearsome skin cancer, that also has  incidence increased by sun exposition.

The tan skin was always considered beautiful, and plus, if it did turn the characteristic of a people. We, the Brazilians,  are the "People of Tanned Skin”. It was always known that sun excess does badly for the skin and the health, but in the recent years the medical science discovered that the sun does much more badly than imagined. The skin cancer and the facial aging are very tangible possibilities.

The skin, as well as the whole human body  is formed by cells. The cells have a nucleus that is where it is deposited the genes and the  DNA, that command the whole process of operation of the body. A disarrangement in DNA is that provokes the cancer.

In the sun rays exist certain radiations that can alter DNA and to provoke skin cancer. The nature created  a mechanism that is capable to protect the nucleus of the cells of the skin of the harmful sun rays that can alter DNA. That mechanism is the system of Melanin. The Melanin is a dark pigment that exists in the cells of the skin. When we are exposed to  the sun, this pigment moves and form a protection around   the nucleus of the cell, as if it was a guard rain.

That movement of the melanin to protect the cellular nucleus is that   originates the beautiful tan color. Therefore, to tan is to play of forming a guard rain by melanin to avoid cancer. It is to play with very serious thing!

Besides the cancer, the sun rays also provoke Photoaging.

Photoaging is the aging of the skin provoked by the exhibition to the sunshine, along the life.

It is possible verify the effects of the sunshine in the aging of the skin, when we observed, in women that took a lot of sun, the skin of the area of the lap that is more exposed and we compared with the skin of the area of the breasts that is more protected. The area of the lap has a much more wrinkled, spotted aspect and with presence of wrinkles and folders  than the area of the breast that was protected by the clothes. is very clear that the action of the sunshine along the time, provokes the emergence of alterations in the intimacy of the skin, that accelerate the aging.

Therefore, sun can provoke cancer and it ages the skin. The ideal of brunet beauty should be reconsidered. In some great centers a trend of the fashion is already observed in valuing the skin no tan. The white color of the skin is being now associated to illustrious and educated people, that know about the deleterious effects of the sun. Maybe in some time the exaggerating suntan can become "tacky", what would be very healthy.

Action of the Sun in Skin:

increases the roughness

increases the wrinkles

reduce  the elasticity

increases the laxity

increases the pigmentation

Cares with the sun

Avoid to take a lot of sun

Disrespect the very tan skin as a beauty ideal

If your skin is white ,   uses sunscreen daily, even in the normal activities, because the diffuse light also provokes photoaging

If you decides to take sun, use potent sunscreen and be exposed the minimum possible and in the sun of the beginning of the morning

The filter protects very well in relation to the aging but it is not warranty and it doesn't protect so well in relation to the skin cancer.

The machines of tanning also provoke cancer and they age about the sun. They are not safe.

FAQ

What does mean sun protection factor  (SPF)?

A term very used when it is spoken in sun protection is "SPF" .  To determine SPF it is considered the time of sun exhibition in that a person's skin is made blush without the filter use, that it is so much smaller the more white  is the skin, comparing with the same skin and same sun with filter use. SPF of the filter is the time that the skin takes to be red using the filter. It is used an amount of filter of 2 mg/cm² of skin . For instance:  If a white skin is made blush in 3 minutes of sun exhibition with a filter SPF 15 would be made blush in the same intensity in 45 minutes. But that if the amount of 2 mg/cm² was used. In practice it is used much less, a layer that doesn't arrive to 1 mg/cm². Therefore the time of protection is smaller than the 45 minutes of the theory, and there is also to take in consideration the quality of the filter. The Filter is necessary and it is a  great protection, but it doesn't mean that with him is possible to take sun in excess without any risk.

Does the sunscreen go out with water and perspiration?

It leaves, and that stiller reduces the time of protection. We need  thicker layers of filter and if it is exposed to a  strong sun exposition  or for a long time should repeat the application in intervals of 2 hs.

When is the sky cloudy is necessary to use sunscreen?

It is, the cloudy sky only reduces the sun exhibition in 10%, it is almost as if there were not clouds. It is necessary the sun protection .

Does a guard sun in the beach avoid the complications of the exhibition to the sun light?

It protects a little, the light contemplates in the sand and also in the water of the swimming pool and in the clear floors, and it reaches who is under the guard sun.

Which the amount of filter that should be last in the face and in the body?

The largest that is comfortable and economically viable.

Who has skin brunette needs sun protection?

He needs, less than who has wite skin , but it also exists skin cancer and photoaging in brunet skins.

2 - Dmae

DMAE is one of the medicines that are used. Orally and in a new presentation, injectable for local treatment of the skin.

DMAE / DEANOL, whose technical name is Dimethylaminoethanol, is an important antioxidant of the cellular plasma membrane.  It is a precursor, or  a substance that is part of the formation of other, that it is in this case the acetylcholine. the Acetylcholine is a neuro transmitter, in other words, a substance that allows the passage of the stimulus among the nerves or between the nerves and the muscles. Used in the skin, has a small action firmness  and tensor action , the short and long term, and presumes that has one  effect  for the muscular contraction. In the studies made with DMAE/Deanol, the visualized effects were increase of the firmness of the skin, increase of the firmness on the area of the eyes and improvement of the facial outline.

It is naturally present in the human body in small amount,

Found naturally in fish as anchovy, sardine and salmon.

acts in the muscular fibers of the organism, turning them firmer, invigorated and elastic. "Mixed  with other nutrients, combined with an antioxidant and applied as a  base on the skin, DMAE provides an improvement in the appearance of the flaccid skin."

Lifting Effect

DMAE has been presenting a small, but visible lifting effect, especially in the line of the jaw, around of the lips and in the superior eyelids, observed by physicians and patients after some months of continuous use, twice a day.

DMAE is not BOTOX in cream. And it is really a rude mistake to think DMAE is  " botox  cream", because  effect is exactly the inverse. While DMAE stimulates the muscle BOTOX blocks. Therefore, DMAE is not indicated  for the folds  among the brows, but for laxity

In our clinic we used DMAE, but never as only one  treatment, just as supporting in lighter cases, and to treat the skin, we continued associating the classic retinoic acid, but associate to products that increase  acceptability.

Injectable DMAE

DMAE can be applied locally for the firmness of  the skin. On average of 10 applications are performed, in intervals of 1 week, of 4 ml of DMAE in the dermis. It can be applied in the mandibular outline and in the cervical area.

3-Elastinol

Elastinol leaves the skin firmest, elastic and more dense in short space of time, could be associated to several actives, promoting synergic and  potentiated action anti-aging.

Among the actions of that  medicine, they are an anti-inflammatory action in the most superficial layers of the skin and in the deepest layers it regulates the synthesis of the elastin, of the collagen and of the glucosamynoglicans that are component of the cellular interstice .  It is also observed an action on free radicals . Elastinol is capable to stimulate significantly the proliferation of the main cellular type of the dermis, the fibroblasts, responsible for the biosynthesis of the fibers associated to the firmness and cutaneous elasticity

The result, therefore, of a treatment with Elastinol will be a firmer skin and more dense skin  , besides turning more elastic, protected and resistant.

4 - Lighteners

The Lighteners more used are Hydroquinone, the Kojic Acid and the Azelaic Acid.

Hydroquinone

This compound acts in the cells producing of melanin, the melanocytes blocking the production and increasing the degradation of the melanossomes , the intra-cellular corpuscles that store the Melanin. Hydroquinone also blocks the action of the enzyme tyrosinase, that has participation in the formation of the melanin.

Kojic Acid

It is a bio-product of a called fungus Aspergillus, that grows in corn,  in Japan. Has similar action to  the Hydroquinone. It is an altenative to  the Hydroquinone, for patients that are intolerant to his  use.

Azelaic Acid

The Azelaic Acid Cream 20% is lightener, although his  effect is in a  long term.

Compositions Chemical of the Lighteners

They are formula, already classic used for the lightner treatment.

Kligman's formula

Hydroquinone,

Tretinoine

Dexametasone

Hydrophilic Ointment.

The Pathak’ s Formula  

Hidroquinona

Tretinoine

Westerhof’ s Formula

N-acetilcisteína (NAC)

Hidroquinona

Triancinolona

Other Lighteners

Acqua Licorice Extract PT:  Extracted of the root of Glycyrriza Glabra Linée,  active is the glabridin. It is an excellent Lightner .

Melawhite:Is  an Inhibitor of Tyrosinase and lightener.

Arbutin:  Extracted of the bearberry it is a lightene that doesn't need to transform in Hydroquinone to act. It Has besides the action lightener, an action antibacterial  and they are supporting medicine  in the acne treatments.

5-Retinoic Acid

Improves the aging of the skin, producing a softer skin and  attenuates the finest wrinkles. Stimulates the tissue formation that gives sustentation o the skin. The inconvenience is that the patient  cannot take  large  sun exposition that can produce stains in the skin. In the beginning of the treatment it can appear reactions, normal , but  displeased, that however disappear after some time of use. It is the most efficient of the topical products if  considered  that him really have   positive effects.  Effect happens  on DNA of the cell of the skin, increasing the capacity of renewal of the skin. It is also efficient in reducing the oiliness of the skin.

6- Glicolic Acid

It provokes an increase of the deposition of collagen in the dermis. provokes lighter reactions than the retinoic acid, but it is less efficient. Sun exhibition is not indicated during  use, but has less complications than the retinoic acid.  It can be used associated with the Retinoic Acid and the C Vitamin , to increase the effects and to reduce possible reactions for using a smaller amount of each product. It is presented in several concentrations.

7- Topical vitamin C

It combats the free radicals and  stimulates the formation of collagen. The origin of the product is very important, because it is necessary that the C Vitamin  be  stable and penetrate in the skin. In spite of exist many crems with vitamin C, only some great laboratories have technology to produce a product to be efficient. When buys the product it is necessary the information about the durability of the vitamin C used in  preparation and also if she penetrates in the skin. An advantage of the treatment with vitamin C, is  that she doesn't stain the skin if there is sun exhibition during  use, important consideration in sunny countries as Brazil.

8 - Argireline

This cream is a great innovation, but unhappily it is not still a botox cream, with the effect same to the  the Botulinum Toxin.

It has been presented like Argireline, Argirelina, Botox - like, Dermo - Relax, Injection - Free, Posts - Botox, botox cream, etc.

The Biological Action of the cream is really similar to Botulinum Toxin’s action, but in a much smaller intensity. doesn't substitute Botox, but it can be used as an accomplice.

The cream, as well as Botox / Dysport acts in the liberation of the acetylcholine, the bubbles  that are part of the nerve and that promote the muscular contraction. The blocking of the contraction, provokes the flatness of the skin starting from the smaller action of the muscle.

But differently of Botox, Argireline Botox's Cream - like, doesn't get to block the nerve completely, then the muscular contraction continues, and the results proportionally will be much smaller than with Traditional Botox.

In our clinic we used Argireline, the cream with “ effect Botox  “ as supporting of the treatments, being part of the dermatologic formulations.

Botox / Dysport continues being the star of the cosmiatric treatments, and we continued using as always, but now we can offer a real help of the argirelina cream.

9 - Liposomes

They are micro bubbles  that carream the medicine for the inside of the cell. With t chemical echniques ultra modern, liposomes can be created inside of liposomes. The carrying of   medicines through the liposomes allows to treat the skin, without    large intolerances.

10 – Alfa lipoic Acid  

 Frequently used with the C Vitamin  and DMAE, it is a potent anti-oxidant.

11 - SK  influx

Stimulates the penetration and the action of actives.

12 - Radizen 

Composed by bioflavonoides, improves  a stimulus in  the synthesis of collagens.

13 - Elastocell

It is a powerful anti-aging, that increases the recovery of the skin starting from the basal membrane.

14 - Structurine

Extracted of the lupine, it contains amino acids and oligosaccharides necessary to the synthesis of proteins and ceramides of the skin.

15 - Paramul J.

Appropriate to the oiliest skins.

9 - Oral medicines

1 - INNEOV

INNEOV was launched  in Europe in March of 2003

Inneov, the first supplement nutritional for the care of the skin was launched  in the European Congress of Dermatology (EADV).

The creation is being led by Nestlé, multinational of processed foods, and for L'Oreal, giant of the cosmetics. The companies created "Laboratoires INNEOV" to develop the first line of foods with aesthetic purposes of the world. The products, that promise to improve a series of physical characteristics, among them hair, skin, eyes and nails, it is already available in Europe.

Suitable for people with more than 40 years, concerned with the loss of the firmness of the skin. The formula of INNEOV benefits notably of a technological progress reached by Researches of Nestlé:  Lacto -Lycopene (tm). That is a combination that  allows the lycopene to be highly assimilatated by  the organism. The Lacto -Lycopene (tm) it is formulated in combination the vitamin C and isoflavones of Soy.

In practice, it means that the skin could be treated with  orally medicines...

During the European Congress of dermatology, in Prague in October of 2002, Inneov was the subject of several communications:

The clinical efficiency of Inneov was established by a clinical study, executed in 90 women.

In the skin the collagen and the net of elastic fibers assure the sustentation and the firmness. This net is dipped in a substance composed by glycans that receive water, assuring  density and tonicity. In the course of time the tax of collagen and of glycans decreases. This phenomenon accelerates with the impairment of the feminine hormones.

According to information of Laboratoires INNEOV, after 2 months of use the women verify a firmer and more tonic skin. Besides better hydration, better brightness of the skin and denser sustentation tissues. After 6 months of use,  it observes an flatness of the cutaneous micro relief (Laboratoires INNEOV-France )

It is still necessary that  his efficiency be measured in practice after many years of use, exaggerating expectations should be avoided, but this medicine  treated of an undeniable progress, and the Naturale Clinic is already early to this release in Brazil, indicating for their patients that fill out the requirements.

formula

lacto -lycopene

soy isoflavones

Vitamin C

2 - INNEOV Capillary Mass

Inneov capillary mass is the first nutritional complement servant to "energize" the hair and with  a combination of taurine, zinc and catechines. INNEOV capillary mass does much more than  offer nutrients suplements, it was created to act deeply in the root of the hair  and continually  promotes the growth of a denser hair

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